All amps are built using my standard chassis setup.
View the 2A3 above for overall appearance and construction style.
All quotes are for single input, single impedance output, and volume control.

My chassis material is .080 clear anodized aluminum.
This is plenty strong even for large amps, and I generally add a support brace
between the power supply and amplifier sections when needed. The brushed finish
is easy to keep clean and does not change color as bare aluminum does.
I generally paint transformer bell ends, so you have some small range of color choice.
The side panels are finished wood, usually stained oak but other woods are available.
Occasionally I will paint side panels.

All parts used are high quality. I try to use NOS tube sockets and avoid using most
of the el-cheapo Chinese ones. I use a lot of Vishay metal film and MKP type capacitors.
I believe in plenty of power supply depth (strong power tranny) and choke filtering. I
strive for the quietest operation possible. I do film bypassing of electrolytics as much
as possible (or rational) or I will using only film throughout the amp, costs permiting.

I will use specialty parts (such as your preferred coupling caps, etc.) as you wish, but those
are a direct add to your costs.

Output transformers are the key element in any tube amplifer. I use a variety of sources
for trannys including Electra-Print, Lundahl, One-Electron and Edcor. I will also use vintage
trannys (say from Fisher or Sansui amps) and am not above buying trannys from eBay.
I have a dwindling stash of nice vintage iron awaiting projects.

There is a lot of ground to cover in setting up what you want for your amp, so I'll
spend a lot of time discussing particulars with you to get you an amp that matches your needs.
I try to match the type of amp and design to your speaker's needs and your listening preferences.

This page may see a lot of editing and changes.